Schacht End-Delivery Shuttle
"The best thing since sliced bread!"

The Schacht End-Delivery Shuttles are the ultimate in shuttles designed especially and precisely for handweavers. They are lightweight, comfortable to throw and catch, adjustable to a variety of yarns, and easy-really easy-to thread. Our end-delivery shuttles are available in 12" and 15" sizes.

How the end-delivery shuttle works:
The end-delivery shuttle has a pirn which remains stationary, instead of a free-spinning bobbin. The weft yarn unwinds off the pirn’s tip when the shuttle is in motion and stops unwinding when the shuttle stops. The yarn comes off the pirn and goes through a set of tension pads and comes out of the shuttle at a constant tension. This even delivery of weft causes less draw-in, which in turn makes better selvedges.

Resist the temptation to handle the weft yarn at all. Simply adjust the tension with the enclosed Allen wrench to suit the yarn you are using and allow your shuttle to do the work. You'll love how you can weave making your weaving go more rapidly than ever.

Schacht End-Delivery Shuttles

Stick Shuttles

The simplest and most versatile of all shuttles. Ours are available in 9", 10", 12", 16", 20", 24" and 30" lengths. We recommend you choose a stick shuttle slightly longer than the width of your warp.

Ski Shuttles

Made to hold medium to heavy yarns, the 18" and 24" ski shuttles are designed so that the yarn is wrapped horizontally around the top of the ski. This leaves a smooth bottom for sliding smoothly across the warp.

Belt Shuttle

Specially designed for use with inkle looms, this shuttle has a bevelled edge for packing in the weft.

Rag Shuttles

These broad, sturdy shuttles have been traditionally used for rag weaving, though they are also excellent for heavy rug wools and bulky chenilles. Available in 14" and 20" lengths.

Rug Shuttle

This beautiful shuttle is carved from a single piece of hard maple. It's good for medium to heavy yarns. It's 20" long and has a low profile.

Pirns

Our pirns come in two sizes: 6" and 8". They are made of wood and are tapered. Choose 6" lenghts for the 12" end-delivery shuttle and 8" for our 15".

How to wind weft yarn on the pirn
It is important to wind the pirn so the weft yarn unwinds smoothly. A double-end bobbin winder which holds the pirn firmly at both ends works best. Single-end winders can be used, although you may need to wrap the winder spindle with a little paper and tape, so that it holds the pirn firmly.

The weft yarn must be wound very tightly. Begin winding at the funnel-shaped end of the pirn. Follow the funnel shape as you wind the weft, winding a series of concentric cones along the length of your pirn. You will be moving the weft yarn back and forth in a criss-cross motion over about 1 1/2”, moving gradually toward the tip of the pirn at about a scant eighth of an inch at a time. Once the yarn has almost reached the tip, stop winding. The wound pirn should be cylindrical in shape and approximately 1 1/8” in diameter, tapering off at the tip. Do not go back to fill in any uneven areas along the length of the pirn. Your technique will improve after you have wound a few pirns.

Positioning the pirn in the shuttle
Push the spindle up from the bottom of the shuttle (the spindle only comes up about 30 degrees and locks in place). Slide the pirn all the way on until it is fully seated on the spindle. Lower the pirn back down into the shuttle. The pirn should be level.

The position of the pirn spindle has been set at the Schacht factory. Over time you may need to adjust the pirn position slightly up or down. Find the spindle-adjusting screw on the bottom of the shuttle. It is inside the hole directly beneath the pivoting end of the spindle. Raise or lower the spindle by turning the screw clockwise or counterclockwise respectively, using the Allen wrench which came with your shuttle. This adjustment rarely needs to be done.

Adjusting the weft yarn tension
With the pirn correctly filled and positioned in the shuttle, pull out a few inches of weft yarn. Hold the yarn with your finger at the tip of the pirn. Lay the yarn over the tension pads and pull it down into the tension pads and curved slot. Now pull the yarn slightly to the left. It will automatically go over the angle pin and be captured.

Test your tension by weaving a few shots across the beginning of your warp. If you have loose loops at the selvedges, you need to increase the tension on the weft yarn by turning the tension-adjusting screws clockwise. If the selvedges are drawing in, you need to ease off on the tension by turning the screws counterclockwise.

The tension-adjusting screws are located in holes on both sides of the yarn-feed end of the shuttle. These screws have small springs in their ends which press against the tension pads. Use the Allen wrench to adjust these screws. In practice, very little adjustment is necessary. (Be careful about loosening the tension pads more than a few turns or the springs will fall out.) Once the tension is adjusted for a particular weft yarn, it will probably not need further adjustment for the entire length of the warp, unless you notice loops or draw-in at the selvedge.

Pick-up Sticks

To complement our three large weaving swords, our wide range of pick-up sticks offer just the right tool for the task at hand. Our Beefy pick-up sticks are 1 1/2" wide and come in 20", 25", and 30" lengths; the Medium pick-up sticks are 1 1/8" wide and come in 18", 22", and 26" lengths; the Petite pick-up sticks are 7/8" wide and are available in 8", 12" and 16" lengths. All are double-pointed, made of hard maple and finished with Danish oil.

Additionally, our 10" pick-up stick is made especially for use with our Cricket loom. It is left unfinished.